UNUSUAL IN RUSSIA

Tavern. The manor house of 1846 in the outback received a second life.

A chance encounter with an unusual manor

LORD Bravel
Travel with LORD BRAVEL
4 min readNov 26, 2021

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Hey! I am Sergey from Russia. I do not know English a little, so I ask you to forgive me for possible mistakes. But I think my stories will be interesting. Thanks )

In the distant Russian wilderness, you can find a lot of interesting things. However, more often than not, it is difficult to find something worthwhile while passing through, because usually you need to taxi somewhere farther from a busy road.

However, we have an interesting object right on the road, and on a very popular tourist route.

Tavern. Kalyazinsky District, Tver Region, Russia

So, we have the village of Porechye in the Kalyazinsky district, on the street there is a month of February and a notable frost. We drove to Kalyazin (which is not difficult to guess) and now he appeared to the right of the road. Tavern.

Restaurant in Porechye

Here is the point on the map. You won’t miss if you just drive through the village.

Well, let’s find out a little about the history of this building, and then take a look at some more photos.

There used to be the Vinogradovs’ estate here. Old production halls are still preserved right behind this house. At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, the Vinogradovs muddied a very profitable business: they made felt boots. Production reached 45,000 pairs a year! So the guys clearly did not live in poverty.

The “felt boom” began in the second half of the 19th century. In 1888, there were already 61 felting establishments in the county, in 1908–149, imposed by the zemstvo tax, plus 12 so large that they were already subject to supervision by the Factory Inspection. Those 12 enterprises then produced about 100,000 felt boots a year, of which 45,000 were the Vinogradovs’ trading house (the largest in the list).

The main house was residential and appeared even before the aforementioned family, and I could not find who it really belonged to at the time of its construction.

The “green” house of the Vinogradovs overlooks the main street of Porechye with its western facade. It is asymmetrical, in which some find the influences of Art Nouveau, although one should not forget that asymmetry is quite common for traditional Russian wooden housing.

The inscription “TRAKTIER” appeared not so long ago, when the corresponding establishment was opened here. It is closed today. Maybe temporarily, maybe already forever. But thanks to this, the building still has a second life. It has been restored, painted and well maintained.

We also managed to find a plan of the estate:

Everything looked obviously rich. What are only these carved platbands:

Carved platbands

And this is the western front room and porch.

Once again, a view of the entire estate. Restaurant in Porechye

Photos taken with Samsung Note 20 Ultra and Sony A7III + SONY GM FE 2.8 16–35

There are such interesting places in Russia. And then it is even more interesting, because we were not driving behind this Tavern.

Thanks for reading to the end! Clap your hands and subscribe to my channel on Medium. Your activity most of all motivates to publish new interesting content.

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